If you say secretary, not office manager, message, not message, personnel officer, not HR, showroom, not showroom, then you are almost certainly over thirty. You even, most likely, remember what the words “glass” and “sideboard” mean, from which the current youth smells of mothballs. But if you want to understand your children and grandchildren, you should learn a couple of dozen newfangled words.
1. Hype- hype, excitement. From English hype - shameless advertising, swindle.
The word hype is most often used in relation to events and people actively discussed in the media and social networks. For example, now "hype catches" Ksenia Sobchak, who suddenly decided to become president. A derivative verb is also used - "hype". It means making a fuss, aggressively PR.
Example: All this hype around the game "Pokemon Go" came to naught in just a month.
2. Hater- an enemy. From English to hate - to hate.
In Russia, haters are those who feel hatred for something or someone and share their dislike on the Internet. For example, he writes malicious comments under photos on celebrity blogs. Or bursts into his own bile posts in social networks.
Example: Buzova has 2 million haters on Instagram for 10 million subscribers!
3. Chill rest, do nothing. From English to chill - to cool.
Teenagers use this word when they want to say that they are spending time without use, just relaxing.
Example: Stop doing homework, let's better rest.
4. Easy- easy, easier. From English easy - simple, easy.
The peak of popularity of the phrase "easy easy" came last summer. The impetus for this was the famous rap battle between Oksimiron and Purulent. The first during the battle often repeated three phrases: 1) easy-easy (in this case, he meant - easier, easier, guy), 2) reel talk (from English real talk - a real conversation), 3) sink about it ( from English think about it - think about it). Subsequently, these phrases of the opponent were ridiculed in an interview with Yuri Dudyu by rapper Purulent. So they left, if not to the people, then to the Internet sphere - first in the form of memes, then in the form of " catchphrases". The most popular of these was the phrase "easy easy", which many now use as a synonym for the word easy.
Example: Can I overtake him? Pfff, iz!
5. Aggressive- angry, irritated. From English angry - angry, indignant.
The word comes from computer games. There it means, first of all, to attack a virtual enemy. In Internet slang, “aggroing” has acquired an additional meaning - to show aggression, anger towards any topics / persons.
Example: Let's go for a walk, stop aggroing.
6. Zashkvar- shame, nonsense or something unfashionable. It came from the prison jargon, where to get dirty - to disgrace.
Young people use the word "zashkvar" to give something (an event, a trend) the most negative assessment.
Example: Wearing sandals with socks is a complete mess.
7. Go- let's go, let's go. From English to go - to go.
IN English verb go sounds like go. But Russian teenagers like it shorter, so they shortened the word to “go”. They use this anglicism when they want to call someone/somewhere to go.
Example: What are you bitching about? Go to walk around the office at lunchtime?
8. Swipe- slide your finger across the screen. From English to swype - to hold, without tearing off, to slide.
The word "swipe" came to us with the advent of touch screens. It means a gesture when a user of a smartphone or tablet puts his finger on the screen and, without lifting it, slides it into the right direction. For example, many with the help of a swipe remove gadgets from the lock mode. Swipe also helps to flip through the pages of e-books in some readers. And swipe is a way to enter text without lifting your finger from the touch screen. The word swipe has become popular in Russia with the growing number of users of the speed dating app Tinder. There, a swipe to the left means that you don’t like the stranger’s photo, and a swipe to the right means that you are ready to meet.
Example: Swipe right, swipe left - for most young people today, this is enough to go on a date.
9. Body shaming- criticism of appearance. From English body shaming - censure of the body.
Body shaming is discrimination against those who do not fit into the generally accepted standards of beauty. For example, bullying overweight people. Body shaming can often be found in comments on celebrity photos. For example, American talk show star Kim Kardashian (for her non-standard buttocks), supermodel Gigi Hadid (some believe that she is overweight for the catwalk), tennis player Serena Williams (for unfeminine forms), TV presenter Olga Buzova (for small breast size) are subjected to body shaming. etc.
Example:“Fatty”, “legs with a wheel”, “how can you wear leggings on such a figure?” - all this was written in the comments under my photos in social networks. Because of body shaming, I stopped leaving the house.
10. Body positivity- acceptance of any bodies; the opposite of body shaming. From English body positive - positive in relation to the body.
Body positivity is a relatively new phenomenon in modern culture. This is the doctrine of accepting one's own body, regardless of whether it fits into the standards of beauty or not at all. Adherents of body positivity urge to find a zest in any appearance, overcome complexes and enjoy yourself without looking back at public opinion. Body positivity is closely related to the fact that famous fashion houses began to bring plus size models to the catwalks. One of the "icons" of body positivity is the 155-kilogram model Tess Holiday. In Russia, the ideas of body positivity are promoted, for example, by a TV presenter with appetizing forms Anfisa Chekhova.
Example: I stopped exhausting myself with diets. How glad I am that body positivity is in fashion!
11. Giza- vital. An abbreviation for the word "life".
The word "zhiza" is usually used after funny or instructive stories. It means “vital”, “such is life”, “it happens”.
Example: This is life, my friend!
12. Shazamite- identify the song. It comes from the name of the Shazam mobile app.
Shazam is about finding out what song is currently playing using the Shazam mobile app. This way you can determine the music that sounds on the radio, on TV, in a club, etc.
Example: A great song was playing in the cafe. Too bad I didn't get to shazam her!
13. Gum- play. From English game - game.
To gamble, gamble, gamble means to spend time playing a computer game.
Example: Summer - it's time to walk and gamble.
14. Crowdfunding- collecting money on the Internet. From the English crowd - crowd and funding - funding.
Crowdfunding is the collection of funds on the Web, which is announced before the launch of a project or for help. So now they often raise money for making films, writing books, starting startups. And, of course, finances are often asked for for patients who need expensive operations. Or for victims of natural disasters. But sometimes, with the help of crowdfunding platforms, they ask for money for very strange needs - for a honeymoon, for example.
Example: I raised 2 million rubles for a shelter for homeless animals through crowdfunding.
15. Bingewatching- "Drunken" watching serials. From English binge (binge) watching (viewing).
Bingewatching is when a person can't stop watching a series and watches all the episodes in one sitting. As if going into a "serial binge". A derivative verb is also used - binge watch.
Example: I won’t go anywhere on the weekend - I’ll be at home binging “House of Cards”.
16. Foody- gourmets. From English food - food.
Young people who love delicious food often call themselves foodies. They carefully approach the choice of food, disdain fast food and banal dishes such as naval pasta. Going on a trip, the first thing foodies try the local cuisine. And at home, they can spend at least 5 hours preparing a complex, but extraordinary dinner. For them, food is a hobby.
Example: She has one food on Instagram - that's who the real foodie is!
17. Photobombing- this is when something or someone extra gets into the frame - accidentally or deliberately.
The most famous example of photobombing is Benedict Cumberbatch, who got into a collective selfie of Hollywood stars at the Oscars. Other celebrities also indulged in photobombing (the ability to unexpectedly fit into someone's photo). Among them is even Her Majesty Elizabeth II.
Example: My cat loves photobombing - I always find his happy face in the background of my selfies!
18. Forilzis- is not it. From the English slang forrealsies, which originates from for real - indeed.
This expression came to us from American slang. In American English, teenagers often ask "Foreelzis?" when they want to clarify whether something they have said is serious. This question can be translated into Russian as “seriously?”, “Is it true?”, “Is it really?”.
Example: - Oksimiron's concert was cool.
Forilzis?
19. Use- enjoy. From English to use - use.
This verb is not new among young people; it has been used since the beginning of the 2000s. But now it is firmly established in everyday life. It is used mainly when talking about the use of various mobile devices.
Example: Put down your calculator! Use your brain!
20. Stream- transmit data (video, sound) in real time. From English streaming - streaming.
The word "stream" became popular after all users of Instagram and Facebook had the opportunity to conduct live video broadcasts. And before that, the word was used mainly by gamers (players). In their slang, "stream" means showing and commenting on your game in real time. (Yes, yes, there are millions of people who want to watch someone else's game!)
Example: Where is the world heading! In the US, a girl was streaming on Facebook how her boyfriend dies.
BY THE WAY
5 words from the 2000s that we forgot
Just 10-15 years ago, these neologisms seemed so promising... But years have passed, and only those who are over 25 will understand them.
Internet cafe,
ICQ (ICQ application),
Chica (girl)
Sidyuk (CD),
Cool (from English cool - cool).
COMPETENT
"Some Jargons Get Lucky"
How does language filter neologisms? And can we make a prediction - will new words that are fashionable today fall into the dictionaries? We asked Maxim Krongauz, professor, author of the books “Russian Language on the Verge of a Nervous Breakdown” and “Albanian Self-Tutorial” to answer these questions:
The language doesn't filter anything at all. Words appear in jargons all the time, current jargons are generally updated faster than the literary language. Some jargon is lucky. They go beyond their jargon and even become trendy. This is what happened with the word "hype". But this does not guarantee that it will enter the normative vocabulary; on the contrary, it may partly interfere, since it is perceived as non-literary, marked in a special way. Our lexicography is quite conservative and avoids such words.
Essay about fashion. (Part 1.)
Fashion.
Fashion is a word that everyone knows.
With European civilization in mind first, let's consider this fact. What could this mean? Surely that word is important enough for us. After all, otherwise he would not be known so everywhere.
Indeed. If the male part of the population is quite calm about fashion, then the female part is by no means so cold-blooded. After all, girls are taught to look beautiful from childhood. And in modern society, for some reason, it is believed that you are beautiful when you look fashionable. Conversely, "not fashionable" means "ugly".
It certainly doesn't sound "fashionable". And this problem has been worrying a lot of people lately. In particular, in my sister's technical school there is a debate on the topic "Fashion enslaves and oppresses women." An interesting question. Let's see what kind of animal this is. Is he that terrible?
What is fashion?
Fashion is a cultural phenomenon. The culture of mankind has appeared, it can be considered ... from the very beginning of Homo sapiens. Therefore, it has existed for a very long time. Perhaps, in this sense, she, as a phenomenon, is more than 50 thousand years old. And in fact, fashion tells us what is beautiful and what is not beautiful, what is worth wearing and what is not worth wearing, what is worth wearing and what is not worth wearing, etc. All this is very much like the usual rules and clichés, standardization.
In other words, fashion, on the one hand, makes it easier for people to understand each other. So, for example, if we see a man in a formal suit, then we immediately believe that he is going to some important event. And a woman in an evening dress appears to us as a visitor, for example, to a theater.
But on the other hand, fashion somewhat depersonalizes a person. And it is very funny, in this sense, to observe the paradoxical behavior of girls and women who want to show their individuality and at the same time dress as fashionably as possible. These are mutually exclusive needs.
The main problem of fashion.
Despite the fact that the most general canons change rather slowly, in small things the fashion changes extremely quickly. This is known to everyone who seeks to follow the latest fashion trends. But dressing in fashion is a very expensive occupation. And not everyone can combine fashion and satisfaction of other needs. Such a discrepancy between desires and opportunities negatively affects the personality of a fashionista. Especially in cases where fashion seems to be a way for a person to obtain a certain status in society. Here and below, I am talking specifically about the beautiful half of humanity because it is overwhelmingly susceptible to this problem. It is the inadequate perception of fashion and the wrong attitude towards it that I consider the most important problem of fashion. (At the same time, please pay attention to the fact that I do not consider fashion itself a negative phenomenon.)
Why can a person treat fashion this way? The answer here is very simple. Remember that modern society has equated fashion with beauty? But beauty for a woman is a source of power over men, a way to attract attention, a way to gain status. Men do love beautiful women. And the status of a woman is in the first place the status of her man.
I am sure that many readers (especially girls) are ready to resent the previous paragraph. “Yes, how is it possible!”, “This is nonsense!” ... And yes. :) You're right. In fact, everything in life is more complicated and does not come down to mere beauty. And emancipation makes itself felt in terms of status.
But many others don't think so. There will be those who will agree with the same paragraph. And if you agreed with him, then I ask you to carefully read the following text (part 2).
Choose one of the proposed conversation topics.
1) Family traditions (based on the photo description). Describe the photo.
Don't forget to describe:
1. the place where the event depicted in the photograph takes place;
2) Going to the theater (museum) (narration based on life experience). Tell us about a time you visited a theater or a museum.
Don't forget to tell:
1. when and with whom did you go to the theater or museum;
2. what kind of theater (museum) it was;
3. why did you decide to go there;
4. what do you especially remember;
5. what impressions did you have from your visit.
3) Is it fashionable to be a patriot (reasoning on the question posed)?
Don't forget to answer the questions:
1. What is patriotism?
2. Is there a fashion for patriotism?
3. Does the word "fashion" apply to patriotism?
4. What patriotism can be called true, and what is false?
Your statement should take no more than 3 minutes.
Explanation.
When choosing one of the three suggested topics for a monologue statement, consider which one is closer to you. Whatever topic you choose, there is a plan for it. Try not to miss any of the points of the plan. It is quite acceptable to add something to the indicated points on your own.
and welcome. Allow no more than 1 minute for this task. You can take up to 3 minutes for the statement itself.
During the monologue, use words correctly, put stress, make sure that sounds and words are pronounced clearly and correctly. Pay attention to the correct construction of sentences.
When choosing topic number 1, you will have to create a text description for the proposed photo.
Description - this is a type of text that names, describes the signs of something or someone: objects, nature, places, people, animals. These signs appear in the same period of time. A large role in your descriptive text will be given to the object of the photograph: whether it is inanimate or animate, perhaps it is a landscape, portrait or event.
When choosing topic number 2, you have to create a narrative text. Narration is a message, a story about a certain event in its temporal sequence. A special feature of the narrative is that it talks about actions that follow one after another. Narrative texts are characterized by the presence of a plot (the beginning of an event), the development of an event, a denouement (the end of an event). In the text you create, the narration will go in the first person, because the task asks you to write a story based on personal impressions.
When choosing topic number 3, you will need to compose a reasoning text. Reasoning is a type of text that explains or proves something, talks about the causes of actions, events, phenomena, establishes relationships between actions, events, phenomena. Remember that reasoning text is always the unity of three components: thesis, evidence and conclusion. The presence in the text-reasoning of one's own point of view and the ability to defend it is welcome.
How unrecognizably the meaning of a word can change! Well, who would have thought that the French borrowing early XVIII century - word fashion- once meant something that is moderate, modest. Etymological dictionaries inexorably testify to this: mode from latin mode(manner; rule) - the same root as the Greek "measure".
The current understanding of fashion is almost the opposite, because now fashion is most often imitation without a sense of proportion. What is fashion? The desire of a person to conform to something. And this craving, this passionate desire can be expressed very immoderately. Of course, first of all I'm talking about the fashion for words. The spread of one word turns it into an annoying insect that stings our ears. Obsessive repetition of the same words project, trend, topical, innovation, announce, hangout, exclusive, format, successful, specifically, positive, creative, brand, in shock, “in chocolate”, this is not good etc.) speaks of the poverty of the dictionary, of poor ownership of resources mother tongue. A fashionable word is when the word itself is enough in excess and to the detriment of other words.
For a Russian person, the assessment of “fashionable word” is still rather negative. This is how we celebrate the undeserved popularity hidden in the buzzword. Agree, the words scholarship, session, study, minibus, family, parents, hello, home, no matter how much they are repeated, they will be frequent, in demand, but just not fashionable. Why? Yes, because application of these words is justified by necessity, which does not happen with a fashionable word, the meaning of which is weathered in the draft of fashion.
Fashionable words and expressions arise like an epidemic, suddenly, spread spontaneously, and getting rid of them is a long process, the disease must outlive itself. Fashion is changing, and once fashionable ones have already gone into oblivion perestroika, as it were, those in power, charisma, sponsor, okay. Of course, these words continue to remain in the language, it's just that their popularity has come in line with the need, and the word has become not fashionable, but ordinary, normal.
How is the transformation of words from simple to fashionable? It seems to me that the point is in one property of a person - to repeat what others have said. Moreover, if it is said not equal in social status, but superior, then this increases the chances of the word becoming fashionable. And after all, not only a borrowed or slang word can be fashionable. In the late 1990s, it suddenly became fashionable to talk about humanitarian aid And mercy. Now these words have taken their place in the modern lexicon. I can give an example not from Russian life, because the language fashion has no boundaries. In 1999, in Poland, they met on their land the head of the Roman Catholic Church, Pope John II, a Pole by origin. The attitude towards this man is the most reverent, and his speech was expected as some kind of revelation. In his speech, John II talked about how many poor people are still around who need to be noticed and who need to be helped. The next morning, the frequency of the words poor, poverty increased many times over, the word became fashionable for a long time.
There is a proverb about senseless imitation of others: Since it's fashionable - even if it's trachoma(trachoma is an eye disease that leaves scars). So is the passion for fashion stronger than common sense?
Where does the fashion for words come from? Author "Dictionary of fashionable words" Vladimir Ivanovich NOVIKOV believes that from two conflicting desires: from a person's desire to stand out from the crowd and from a tendency to imitate. He spoke about this at the Krasnoyarsk book fair. And not only about this. Vladimir Ivanovich said that the idea of the dictionary came to him in 1961, when the word became fashionable astronaut. In the current edition of the dictionary, of course, this word is not (words are also going out of fashion), there are other words and expressions that are fashionable in our time. But that's not what attracts attention.
The dictionary is interesting, first of all, by the author's style. The first edition fell into my hands in a more than inappropriate situation - there was no copier nearby! And the little stories about this or that word were simply fascinating: turns of speech, accurate and well-spoken assessments, fascinating reasoning and unexpected comparisons, interesting context, historical and literary references. All this made it possible to read the dictionary as a book of essays on the topic of a particular word. But I wanted not only to read, but also to keep the most liked as a keepsake. I had to take up a pen and rewrite part of the text in a notebook, thereby creating a handwritten version of V.I. Novikov. Here it lies in front of me, and I cannot but quote the most striking quotations from it.
For example, about one of the slang words he wrote that it has an incurable birth defect and is based on an evil and cynical metaphor.
About other - it has become a kind of speech oligarch, buying up a whole myriad of meanings.
One more thing - obscene word(forgotten score!).
Or here's another one: Imported "manager" into Russian.
It was impossible to get past the phrase: Sobriety is not the norm; Moreover, this norm is not drunkenness.
About the non-existent "language reform", the author said that all this would be funny if there were no such aggressive linguistic ignorance in our society.
reminded that the word image came to us through French, and lovers of Russian literature know the direction
20s imagism(Imagists were S. Yesenin, N. Erdman, A. Mariengof).
About the word advanced noticed that no dictionary can specify how many times a day it is permissible to pronounce this importunate epithet and to what extent it can be promoted from colloquial speech to literary language.
By the way, I could quote these phrases from the book, and not from my handwritten notes, because at the KRYAKK Vladimir Ivanovich presented a copy of the new edition of the dictionary to two participants in the meeting who asked the best questions; I got one copy.
However, with the new edition will be associated with new feelings and ideas. One of them is to deal with the fashion for words. If only it did not become a fashion to discuss fashionable words!
Humanitarian Institute (HNF)
Faculty of Economics
"Influence of fashion in modern public consciousness"
Completed by: Litvinova Elena
Checked by: Burov A.B.
Introduction
Fashion. Fashion history
fashion influence
Great designers and their creations
Introduction
Fashion is one of the most widely known phenomena of social life, invariably enjoying keen interest not only on the part of scientists, but also on the part of people who encounter it in everyday life. In scientific and popular science literature, fashion has repeatedly acted as an object of study, entering the sphere of interests of specialists in a number of branches of knowledge - philosophers, historians, culturologists, psychologists, artists, clothing technologists, etc. There are also many works in sociological science devoted to fashion and revealing various aspects of this complex and multifaceted phenomenon, the scale of which is such that, as noted by A.B. Hoffmann: "It is difficult to name such an area of socio-economic and cultural life, no matter where its influence is." Fashion can also be viewed as a kind of invariant, a certain set of norms of social behavior that prevail in certain spatio-temporal limits. Fashion itself is a breath of fresh air, from which novelty and creativity are expected. The consolidation of fashionable standards will lead to the fact that they, remaining standards, will cease to be fashionable, turning into an analogue of a uniform.
On the other hand, as a result of observing the modern fashion industry with huge capital invested in it, with an extensive network of organizations performing various functions, including not only the production of fashionable clothes on an industrial scale, but also the cultivation of high fashion, the publication of fashion magazines, the creation and support brands, market research, etc. - increasingly raise the question: is not fashion itself becoming a social institution? What if the observed "mode" change is nothing more than an appearance? Unlike the fashion of the twenties, thirties, forties, fifties, not to mention the sixties of the XX century, which evoke unambiguous associations with certain and holistic images of women, the fashion of the last decade gives the impression of losing face and randomly throwing from style to style. The seasonal changes taking place in it, on the one hand, are too radical (from mini to maxi, from narrow to wide, from sharp to blunt - and vice versa), but this is a special feature: to combine incongruous, to dress discouragingly! Perhaps such diversity is a natural property of the culture of the turn of the millennium ... Let us recall that the fashion of the turn of the 19th-20th centuries. also surprised contemporaries with reminiscences to the styles of the past.
The relevance of the topic of the work is due to:
A) important role fashion as one of the important elements of human culture, serving as a source of social innovation and the basis for establishing sustainable social ties between people;
b) insufficient development of this topic in the scientific literature.
The theoretical basis was formed by fundamental works in the field of research social structures, social institutions and processes, fashion as a social phenomenon, its historical, cultural, semiotic, economic, socio-psychological aspects. Among them are the works of such scientists as: R. Arnold, R. Barth, EL. Basin, K. Bell, P. Berger, E. S. Bogardus, P. Bourdieu, I. Brenninkmeyer, T. Lukman, R. Burns , G. Blumer, J. Baudrillard, F. Braudel, M. Weber, T. Veblen E. E., Viollet-de-Luc, F. Davis, A. B. Hoffman, E. Katz, V. M. Krasnov , C. Campbell, P. Coelho, J. Derrida, V. Dilthey, E. Durkheim, etc. Noting the significant scientific value of the research, at the same time, it should be noted that some conclusions and provisions put forward by the listed scientists and specialists require further development in theoretical and practical terms, and a number of scientific provisions need to be adjusted in the light of the changed socio-economic, moral and aesthetic conditions for the development of fashion at the present stage.
Fashion. Fashion history
Fashion is a form of manifestation of culture, it is a reflection of reality, manifested in the manner of behavior, and mainly in clothing. Fashion changes very often. Fashion sets certain rules of behavior and manners of dressing, and a person who does not follow these rules runs the risk of being branded as "unfashionable". At the same time, there are rules that never go out of fashion, for example, the classic style of clothing. In the broad sense of the word, fashion is the dominance of a certain taste in a certain area of life. As a rule, fashion is short-lived and often changes, sometimes returning to the long-forgotten. culture fashion designer creative
Stone Age, several tens of thousands of years ago. It got colder for a long time in Europe: the days of the dominance of a mild tropical climate, when people thought more about jewelry than about clothes, have passed. Elephants, rhinos and hippos were replaced by reindeer, bears and lions, whose fur and skins, sewn with tendons and hair, successfully play the role of warm clothes: animal paws became straps, and backs with tails - skirts. Men dressed more modestly than women, men did not have straps, they tied animal skins over their right shoulder. Adornments are fangs and bones of animals, stones, amber.
BC e. Sumerians in Mesopotamia do not wear animal skins on their shoulders. They wrap them around the waist like a skirt. Konak made from goat or sheep fleece with long wool, and then from a fabric imitating them, remained popular until the Middle Ages. In Babylon, they dressed in long woolen shawls, often over tunics - shirts with short sleeves. Such an ensemble ended with a fringe and was multi-colored, but red was the most favorite color. Men curled their beards and hair on their heads so that they looked artificial.
BC Clothing is divided into: draperies - fabrics that are wrapped around the body and fastened with buckles and belts, and sewn things, tailored to the shape of the body, arms, legs. Nomadic horsemen of the Mongolian steppes wear sewn clothes. The Egyptians, like all the peoples of the Mediterranean, walk in draperies. Mainly linen fabrics of natural white color are used. The Egyptian religion considers wool, a fabric of animal origin, to be a vicious material. Nefertiti wraps herself in a haik - a large transparent royal veil. Her husband, Pharaoh Akhenaten, wears, like all Egyptian men, a traditional loincloth - henti.
BC Finely pleated linen draperies are cool and transparent. Women have wigs on their heads made of hair that is longer than their own, and on top are light crowns woven from gold threads. Dancers and slaves wear only belts - only nudity is available to the lower class. Male heads are most often shaved; Wigs are worn only on public holidays.
The Egyptians are passionate admirers of white, which their neighbors do not really appreciate: Libyans, Syrians, Phoenicians, Jews - their tunics and shawls are embroidered or painted in all the colors of the rainbow.
years ago in Greece, the Aegean Sea was dominated by merchants from Crete. On this island, everything was different from other places: women did not sit at home, but took part in public life. Their costume was also unusual. They were the only ones in the Mediterranean who wore tailor-made clothes. A very narrow bodice tightly squeezed the waist and lifted the chest, most often naked, above the full skirt with large flounces. The appearance of the men was simpler: two or three loincloths, superimposed on each other. Like the women, the men of Crete loved curled hair, ribbons, and large hats.
BC The Greeks wear rectangular pieces of woolen or linen fabric, fastening them on the shoulders with two brooches, and on the belt with a belt. Women wrap themselves in peplos - a piece of dense fabric two meters long and one and a half wide. Chitons - robes, smaller and lighter, sewn in the form of pipes. Chitons to the knees serve as an undershirt for young men. A short cloak worn on top, which is fastened with a buckle on one shoulder, is called a chlamys. Another type of cloak - himation - could also serve as a night cover. Often men and women wear the same clothes. So, the disgraced Focion became so impoverished that he could not leave the house with his wife, because they had the only suit for two.
Goths, Germans, Burgundians know no equal in the art of decorating metal with chasing, enamels and inlays.
In the Middle Ages simple people dress pretty uniformly. The short dress is the usual peasant clothing. Shepherds wear tight breeches and chaperons - caps that cover their shoulders. They work in the fields in long monastic robes with a hood. The pilgrims set off on their journey wearing felt hats adorned with shells.
Peasants are freed from seniors. Craftsmen and merchants in cities form economic groups - workshops, guilds. In Italy and France both artists and poets have a new goal: the search for beauty. Men wear short suits.
From now on, clothes are adjusted to the figure with lacing. Fantasy becomes necessary - fashion is born. The church considers such hats "with horns" as a sign of the devil. Children shout after women dressed like this, "au hennin!" Since then, the word "gennin" means a high female headdress.
France ends the Hundred Years War, England begins the War of the Scarlet and White Roses. In Italy - the Renaissance: the ladies speak ancient Latin, enlightenment is reborn. Silk is spun in Tuscany. For the holidays, "unusual" clothes are created. Women wear a long embroidered upelyand with a trailing train, under which is a tight-fitting kott - an underdress. The top of men's hats is wrapped with a scarf, the end of which goes down to outerwear. There are short caftans of Turkish origin. Partially colored stocking pants make legs colorful.
During the Renaissance, perfume replaced cleanliness for a long time. The notoriety of public baths and the strict prescriptions of the Church Reformation killed the medieval habit of frequent washing.
European countries are fighting for supremacy. Spain and Italy are losing their influence. France becomes the trendsetter.
The era of baroque fashion was replaced by the era of rococo fashion: the "intimate" costume, that is, richly ornamented dresses with regular lines and small details.
George Brummel was born - an English dandy, an absolute trendsetter. 1849 The safety pin was introduced and would later become a fashion accessory. 1853. Levi Strauss created the first jeans.
The corset is the soul of a ladies' suit. For the fragile, it is a reliable support, for others it is a means of creating the desired silhouette.
Paul Poiret makes a real revolution by abolishing the corset. He forced to recognize the dress of lively and energetic colors, which emphasizes the figure with a ribbon passing under the chest. The weight of the ladies' attire has decreased from 3 kilograms to 900 grams.
Coco Chanel showed off her little black dress for the first time. It did not produce much effect against the backdrop of the then fashionable bright colors and waited for recognition until the 1930s.
War, hard years. shoes are made with wooden soles, skirts have become shorter. It takes a lot of effort for girls to be fashionable, but for dudes, everything is simple: a hat on the back of the head, a large saggy jacket and skinny trousers.
As yet unknown couturier Christian Dior is making a revolution: now the lines will be elongated and expanded. Narrow waist and accentuated hips are in fashion.
Fashion for the fragile type of woman. At the peak of popularity, the Twiggy model and mini. In the USSR in the 1960s, self-made knitted headphones were popular.
The Japanese, the Dutch, the Italians, the Americans, the British and especially the French are fashion designers everywhere.
Blonde ringlets, crew cut hair, green or black mohawks, jackets or oversized coats, miniskirts or maxi dresses, shoes of all colors, flats or heels, retro or tomorrow… You can wear everything. Everything except what was worn last year.
Fashion for unisex style, for minimalism, for "ecological style".
d. Rhinestones, bright style, the so-called glamour, are in fashion.
Since 2008, shocking has been gaining momentum, everything forgotten old has come into fashion.
fashion influence
How does fashion affect our lives? It is difficult to unequivocally answer this question, but it is clear that design and fashion strive to cover all aspects of the human environment. In order to understand a phenomenon in the present, it is necessary to trace its history. The sense of beauty has been inherent in mankind since time immemorial. As soon as a man realized himself as a man, he began to decorate his body and clothes, tools and the surrounding space (cave, hut, house and hearth). Today it is difficult to say what guided ancient man when assessed as "beautiful-ugly". The concept of beauty for him, probably, at first was inseparable from the concept of "useful". And although subsequently a person surrounded himself with truly beautiful, but often useless gizmos, the essence of the combination "beautiful-useful" remained hidden and still reflects a certain harmony of things and phenomena, taking into account the achievements of the human mind. But why do we so want to surround ourselves with beautiful expensive things, create a unique interior of our home, wear designer clothes released in one copy? Probably, it is important for us to feel comfortable in everything that surrounds us, at the same time to be different from each other, to have our own style. We are sure that from the right design, for example, an apartment, life will become more stylish, modern and happy. It turns out that we ourselves want to be influenced by the modern design of the world around us. Fashion arises as a certain type of behavior and lifestyle of a person, although following it begins with the perception and imitation of things, objects, manners, speech, the so-called fashion "signs". Fashion often acts as a regulator of human communication, becomes a mass habit and is protected by the power of public opinion. In childhood, our parents teach us not to do like everyone else, to be independent. But a completely different manner of behavior is characteristic of us when we grow up: we either find an ideal for ourselves and imitate it in everything, or we follow mass behavioral tendencies, being afraid to go against society, afraid of being expelled. An interesting phenomenon. Since every person, to varying degrees, tries to follow the ever-changing trends of fashion and design, fashion over a short period of time affects the person himself, not only in appearance, but also in thinking. For example, with the advent of fashion shows, new standards of beauty are formed. Fashion designers of the late 80s and early 90s prefer tall, slender girls with large, wide-set, preferably light, almond-shaped eyes, with large sensual lips, or small and plump, with long straight hair, with parameters 90-60-90 (less is possible, more is undesirable). Men's tastes change accordingly. Women, in turn, strive to meet the standards. Thus, the average weight of a young girl has decreased by 10-15 kg over the past 25 years, not to mention other parts of the body that have become possible to change with the help of beauty salons and plastic surgery. It turns out that designers can influence people with their activities. What image will they draw for us, so we will look like? Well, not immediately, of course, until our consciousness gets used to and rebuilds ... In my opinion, design and fashion have the same influence on the crowd as religion ... Susceptibility to fashion and the nature of following it largely depend on the person himself, on his independence, level of consciousness , culture, moral and aesthetic development.
Fashion spreads to the whole society only where and when there is a possibility of imitation of some social groups (or classes) by others by borrowing certain cultural patterns. In a traditional and estate society, custom and law are more rigid and clear than fashion, assign certain cultural patterns to certain social groups. For example, during the Middle Ages in Europe, members of the lower classes were forbidden to wear bright colors, while the nobility could wear bright colored fabrics. The use of certain materials, types of finishes, forms was regulated by decrees of the kings. For example, the French king Charles VIII in 1480 forbade everyone, except for the highest nobility, to wear clothes made of gold and silver brocade, silk, decorate dresses with precious stones, regulated the length of shoe socks in accordance with social status and title. For the first time he pointed out the special features of the society in which mass fashion appears and operates, the German sociologist G. Simmel at the end of the 19th century. He identified the following features:
In society, there must be differences between social strata in terms of prestige (therefore, there was no fashion in primitive society).
Representatives of the lower strata strive to occupy a higher position in society and have the opportunity to do so (i.e., there are no rigid social barriers). These signs correspond to a capitalist society. Fashion operates in social systems, which are characterized by the following features:
) dynamism;
) social differentiation and mobility;
) openness (developed channels of communication);
) redundancy (the system of replication of material and cultural goods is developed, there are many competing fashion designs).
Fashion is a process that gradually develops within old social forms. The emergence of fashion in the XII-XIII centuries. in cities Western Europe was associated with the development of urban culture, with the need for new forms of communication, more superficial and short. The places of such contacts were city squares and streets, where pilgrims who visited holy places, merchants and wanderers who visited distant lands, knights returning from crusades. It was in the cities that new cultural patterns and ideas appeared, production developed, first in the form of an urban guild craft, focused on the manufacture of products for sale, then in the form of a manufactory. But the birthplace of fashion was primarily the court of the king and the palaces of the court nobility.
Fashion acquires socially significant significance in the 19th century. as a result of bourgeois revolutions (primarily the Great French Revolution) and the industrial revolution, when a society of "equal opportunities" was formed, in which former borders and prohibitions were abolished and mass production began to develop, which made it possible to satisfy the needs for diverse and cheap goods for the mass consumer, arose new communication channels and means of communication: post, telegraph, railways, newspapers, magazines, radio, television, Internet. Modern fashion remains the brainchild of urban metropolitan areas.
G. Simmel put forward the "elite concept" of fashion, explaining the causes and mechanisms of fashion functioning based on the characteristics of the psychology and behavior of various social groups - this concept was called the "concept of the seepage effect." According to this concept, the lower strata tend to imitate the elite, demonstrating an illusory commonality with the upper classes, copying their fashion designs. Thus, fashion standards and patterns gradually "leak" from top to bottom, reaching the lower strata of society, spreading throughout society as a whole - this is how mass fashion arises. The social elite accepts new designs as fashionable in order to re-designate and maintain their status and difference from the rest of the mass. The masses are again trying to master the fashionable standards and patterns of the upper strata, striving for a higher social status. And so endlessly.
However, in the XX century. The elite theory of fashion has been criticized (in particular, by the American sociologist G.-J. Bloomer) for exaggerating the role of the elite in the functioning of fashion. Fashion is about mass choice and mass behavior. In modern society, the middle class plays a leading role, which is the trendsetter due to its intermediate relatively unstable position in society: on the one hand, trying to improve its social status, it imitates the elite, on the other hand, it emphasizes its difference from the lower social strata. In the XX century. many new "fashions" originated in the lower strata of society - jazz, denim fashion, etc. The famous fashion designer K. Lagerfeld said in the 1980s: "Whoever neglects the street is a fool. It is the street that determines the fashion of the last twenty years."
The unstable social position was the reason for such an active participation in fashion of women in connection with the emancipation in the XIX-XX centuries. and youth in the second half of the 20th century.
Fashion is a social regulator, demonstrating, on the one hand, social inequality in society, denoting the differences between social groups (different social groups have different opportunities and incentives to participate in fashionable behavior, fashion designs have different prices, etc.), on the other hand , fashion smooths out the differences between social groups, being a factor in the democratization of modern society.
Fashion is not only a means of demonstrating social status, but also a means of communication between people, a form of mass communication. Fashion can function as intergroup communication and as intragroup communication. Fashion is associated with the main socio-psychological mechanisms of communication: suggestion, infection, persuasion, imitation. Back in the 19th century there were interpretations of fashion as imitation (G. Spencer: "Fashion is essentially an imitation"). Two stimuli played a decisive role in the history of fashion: respect and competition, which manifested themselves in imitation out of respect and in imitation out of rivalry. Imitation out of respect (imitation out of deference) prevailed under absolutism, when the tastes of the king became the absolute fashionable standards. Kings and their entourage were trendsetters - a vivid example of this was the "King - the Sun" - King Louis XIV of France. In bourgeois society, this role passes to everyone who is in sight: in the 19th century. imitated actors (Talma, M. Tal-oni, S. Bernard), poets (Lord J. Byron), politicians (S. Bolivar, J. Garibaldi), in the XX century. - movie stars, popular pop and rock musicians, politicians, top models.
Along with imitation, there is also the opposition of individuals or social groups to each other with the help of fashion, for example, the English aristocracy and the bourgeoisie (especially members of religious sects) on the eve and during the bourgeois revolution in the 17th century.
At the heart of imitation is the imitation reflex. A deeper and broader phenomenon has become mutual assimilation, which is called social identification and is directly related to fashionable behavior. Identification is an internal socio-psychological mechanism of communication that creates the basis for conscious assimilation and at the same time conscious isolation. Through fashion, the assimilation of a person to members of his own group and at the same time opposition to members of other groups is manifested. The phenomenon of identification with a group and opposition to the generally accepted fashion is called anti-fashion. As a rule, the protest against the official fashion is an external manifestation of the rejection of the values prevailing in society. Such behavior is typical for social groups dissatisfied with the social structure and their position in society. So, during the French Revolution, the style of dressing sans-culottes was anti-fashion. In the second half of the XX century. a negative attitude towards the generally accepted fashion has become inherent in the younger generation. After the Second World War, the protest of young people took on a wide variety of forms, manifested in youth subcultures: in the 1940s. Zooty in the USA and Zazu in France in the 1950s - beatniks and bikers in the USA, teddy boys in the UK, dudes in the USSR; in the 1960s in Western countries - rockers, "mods" (modernists), hippies; in the 1970s - hippies, skinheads and punks; in the 1980s - punks, "new romantics", rappers, "greens"; in the early 1990s. - "grunge". Anti-fashion often turns into mass fashion or at least influences official fashion. So, jeans turned into mass fashion, which in the 1950s and 1960s. were the clothes of young people protesting against the ruling order - beatniks, hippies, "left" students. It is alternative subcultures that contain a huge innovative potential, which is being mastered by modern fashion. For example, the hippies borrowed a tendency to individualize the appearance of a person, as opposed to the depersonalizing nature of the bourgeois uniform and the uniformity of official fashion, as well as an interest in using elements of the culture of other peoples and old things that bear the stamp of the time, eclecticism, with which everyone sought to express their own "I". In addition to bright colors, aggressive accessories, etc., they were borrowed from the punk subculture. also a tendency to outrageous and parody tradition.
Following fashion reveals a person's attitude to society, to the world around him, to himself. On the one hand, a person wants to preserve his individuality, on the other hand, he seeks to identify himself with other members of society. The hidden desire to obey fashion struggles with the desire to be independent of it, not to imitate others, but to differ from them. Fashion excludes genuine choice, offering a person ready-made options, standard patterns of behavior that can be thoughtlessly followed, and at the same time maintains the illusion of individual development. This is precisely the protective, compensatory function of fashion. The American sociologist J. K. Galbraith pointed out that the possession of fashionable standards and patterns is associated with a certain mental reaction. These benefits arouse in the consumer a feeling of personal success, equality with neighbors, free him from the need to think, arouse sexual desires, promise him prestige in society, improve his physical well-being, promote digestion, impart attractiveness in accordance with generally accepted standards, satisfy mental needs. . Otherwise, the individual feels infringed, out of the norm.
A person's belonging to a particular social or age group determines the possibility of choosing his attitude to fashion. Fashionable imitation attaches a person to the system of group values. Fashion following is closely related to conformity, which is a special case of social identification. Conformity implies a certain conflict between the individual and the group, the divergence of their views, desires, interests. At the same time, the individual is forced to adapt to the values of the group, either by abandoning his own beliefs, or by disguising himself as the standards adopted by the group. Fashion softens the conflict between the need to submit to conformity and the need for individual exaltation, while providing both. Fashion following can be formal or active. In the case of formal adherence to fashion, its prescriptions are carried out only if they do not contradict the personal convictions of a person.
Fashion was also studied as a psychological phenomenon, studying the causes of its occurrence and changes from the point of view of individual psychology. Fashion satisfies important human needs as a mechanism to resolve the conflict between social conformity and individual freedom. G. Zimmel gave the following definition: "Fashion is some special form from among those by which life tries to make a compromise between the tendency towards social equalization and the inclination of the individual to manifest his individuality." Other fashion researchers focused on the psychological function of fashion, which is a way of emotional discharge, satisfies a person’s need for new sensations: “The meaning of the existence of fashion is a violation of the gradual development of a number of mass phenomena, a periodic radical change (once every six to eight years) is a shake-up , with the help of which a person refreshes his feelings "(L. Petrov). The psychological approach to fashion reveals psychological reasons fashion changes: 1) the reason for the change of fashionable behavior is in the psychological law of "fading orientation": repeated exposure leads to the fact that the orientation reflex weakens, goes out, the perceived image loses its meaning (a fashionable object gradually loses its value of modernity); 2) a new stimulus gives effect only when it exceeds the "adaptation rate" to past stimuli. A new design can become fashionable only when the old design loses its fashionable meanings. Therefore, it is important to offer something new at the right time, when conditions are ripe for the perception of something new. In the history of fashion, there have been many examples of unsuccessful attempts to prematurely introduce a new fashion. For example, in 1922, a campaign to promote long skirts failed in France, and in 1969-1972. - an attempt to bring the maxi length into fashion. The great fashion designers had a flair that allowed them to guess the moment when the consumer was already "ripe" for the perception of new forms. The French writer M. Duras, for example, wrote about the famous couturier I. Saint Laurent: "Year after year he offers women not just what they expect, but what they expect without realizing it."
Psychoanalysts (Z.Freud, E.Fromm, J.Flügel and others) offered their own interpretation of fashion as a psychological phenomenon, who associated its occurrence with unconscious processes. 3. Freud gave this interpretation of the origin of fashion: "New fashion arises from calls for freedom, beauty and significance." Psychoanalysts interpreted following fashion as a way to overcome the feeling of inferiority of a person that arises as a result of dissatisfaction with one's social position. Adherence to fashion compensates for the lack of prestige: "A change in clothes gives the illusion of a change in personality, a housewife in an apron feels like a servant, in an evening dress she already feels like a lady" (P. Nistrom).
A similar approach to the study of fashion led to its erotic interpretation, which was interpreted as an expression of sexual needs. J. Flugel proposed the theory of "movement of erogenous zones", which explains the changes in the European costume (especially women's) based on the fact that fashion is an important moment of sexual competition.
Great designers. Their works
The first mention of high fashion (fashion "haute couture") falls on the period of modernist invention - mid-nineteenth century. It was then that the first fashion salons and the first fashion designers began to appear.
High fashion is...
This is the art of sewing of the highest quality…
These are the creations of the world's leading fashion salons that set the tone, style and direction of universal fashion ...
These are unique and unique models that are produced in the most famous salons ...
It's fantasy turned into reality...
Christian Dior (1905-1957), the most successful fashion designer after the Second World War, joins the logical development of post-war fashion (with its coarsening and masculinization), recalling the main task of fashion, which is to "dress women and make them more beautiful." He created a new style (New Look), a revolutionary elongation of the skirt, were, according to him, a reaction to poverty. In the book "I am a ladies' tailor" he wrote: "We left behind an era of war, uniforms, labor service for women with broad boxer shoulders. I painted women resembling flowers, gently bulging shoulders, a rounded chest line, liana-like slender waists and wide , diverging from top to bottom, like cups of a flower, skirts. The great success of Dior testifies to the dominant role of the fashion designer endowed with a subtle instinct of the times and the spirit of the times, for the tailor-designer with his rich imagination still stands at the origins of fashion. He draws his inspiration wherever he can. Madame Schiaparelli, for example, in one of the seasons owes her creations to the magical action of the American circus "Barnham and Bailey". Paintings and exotic ballets, great exhibitions and trends of the times, films, travels and good books are the raw materials for the work of a fashion designer. He can, leaving his time, plunge into the tender romance of bygone eras, or bravely "saddle" modernity.
Dress from the collection presented in Moscow.
Giorgio Armani. Was born in 1934<#"510883.files/image003.gif">
In 1987, Giorgio launched the Armani Occhiali line of ophthalmic frames and sunglasses. 1994 is marked by the appearance of a clothing line for skiing. 1996 saw the release of the Armani Neve (Snow) and golf collections for winter sports, as well as the Armani Classico line.
And the most ingenious, creative designer of the 21st century, in my opinion, is Alexander McQueen.
Common to all sociological concepts of fashion is the recognition of fashion as an important social phenomenon that has an impact on society. At the same time, when explaining the social characteristics of fashion in various theories, the accents differ significantly. This is due, first of all, to the fact that the concepts of fashion are based on various methodological guidelines that set the appropriate directions for research.
The last motif underlies the emergence of fashion. Fashion is, first of all, new patterns of behavior used by prestigious strata in order to stand out from society, and adopted by other members of society in order to look like representatives of successful, prestigious strata.
The French psychologist G. Tarde considered fashion, along with custom, the main type of imitation. The reason for the emergence of fashion are the "laws of imitation" that underlie the life of society. If custom is an imitation of ancestors, then fashion is an imitation of contemporaries. As long as there is social inequality, there can be no single fashion.
Modern fashion has wide socially significant opportunities. Its main social function is to serve as a way to identify new cultural patterns. The famous French couturier Pierre Cardin gave the following definition of fashion: "Fashion is a way of expression. In other words, fashion is a reflection of the individual qualities of an individual in a social and moral aspect"
Bibliography
1. Video lectures by Alexander Vasiliev (fashion historian) from YouTube.ru
2. Veblen T. "Theory of the Leisure Class" M; Enlightenment, 1984.
Hoffman A.B. fashion and people, or new theory fashion and fashion behavior. - M .: Agency "Publishing Service", 2000. - P. 4.
Orlova L.V. "The ABC of Fashion" - M; Enlightenment, 1988.
Roland Barthes "The system of fashion, articles on the semiotics of culture" M; ed. Sabashnikov, 2003.
R. Molho "To be Armani" M; ed. ABC Classics, 2008.
- In contact with 0
- Google Plus 0
- OK 0
- Facebook 0
